Jewellery, Watches and Objects of Vertu

A green chalcedony dress ring by Mario Buccellati, circa 1960, the oval cabochon within scalloped claw setting and petal surround, to tapered shoulders, the gold with textured ‘rigato’ finish, signed ‘M. Buccellati’, ‘750’ and numbered ‘56’, ring size P½. £800-£1,000

The Italian firm Buccellati is famous for its rich textural gold jewellery spanning the decades from the 1920s to the 1960s. Their finest pieces are bold and immediately recognisable.

Born into a family of goldsmiths in 1892, Mario Bucellati was apprenticed to the jewellers and goldsmiths Beltrami & Bernati. In 1919 he opened his own jewellery store and workshop on the Largo Santa Maria, near the Teatro alla Scalla, in Milan. In 1951 Mario and his son Luca opened their first store in New York, with another following, on 5th Avenue, in 1954.

Mario Buccellati was the first to introduce the technique of texture-engraving, often using mixed metals of silver and gold, or platinum and gold. The different engraving techniques are called rigato (parallel lines cut onto the surface of metal to obtain a sheen effect), telato (texture, obtained by fine cross-hatched lines), segrinato (engraving in every directions with overlapping textures), ornato (decoration based on natural forms such as animals, leaves and flowers), and modellato (the most delicate engraving technique which consists of reproducing several designs chiselled in three dimensions). When the process is complete, the finish will often resemble a fine fabric - linen, lace or silk.

In 1971 Gianmaria Buccellati, grandson of Mario, set up his own eponymous jewellery firm, going on to open stores around the world, including the Place Vendome in Paris. He also set the Italian Gemological Institute, IGI, in 1973, remaining its president for the next quarter century.

In 2011, the two firms of Mario Buccellati and Gianmaria Buccellati merged to form the single firm of Buccellati.